B16a into ef setup

If you have bought the mounts then it's just a matter of lowering in the new engine and bolting everything up. You will need to make an indent into your passenger side shock tower. This is to provide enough room for the alternator to fit.

There is no pretty way of doing this, so just grab a mallet and go nuts. You will also need an engine hoist to remove and insert the engines. You might find as well that your power steering pulley is close to your radiator support bar. I removed mine, so I didn't have to worry about it, but it should be fine. You might have to knock in the support bar a bit, but this shouldn't affect anything.

Stuff approx. But remember than the cheapest place is not always the best. You don't want to waste any money with poor workmanship, and always be back getting parts fixed. I'm If you do not agree with something PM me and I will correct or add to it. Neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. Thanks Setanta :thumbsup: I've updated the post with the corrections you mentioned.

I forgot the EF9 is different from the firwall forward :rolleyes: And I did mention about the wishbone, but I have updated to make it easier to see. Good writeup. Where is the best place for us aussies to source these from? AFAIK the interior wiring loom needs to be replaced with an efi one.. They are American, but haven't heard of a problem with them before, and there prices were fairly decent. True :thumbsup:. Did the original motor have 2 or 4 injectors on it?

IMO the easiest and cheapest conversion for an ED considering we all got dual carbies is to stick a D16Y1 motor in it and leave it carburetted That's what I'll be doing New posts. Search forums. Log in. Install the app. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.

You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Right i know there are many sites out there but i just need a few thngs clarified before i go ahead and buy my first EF civic, First off i have a EJ9 civic which i put a b16a 2nd gen into with ease that i can use for parts as will be swapping as much as i can from it over to the EF as i can -for the EF itself i will be aiming for a dual point injection 1.

I have a 92 Civic so my knowledge isn't specific enough to answer all your questions. But that info should be easy for you to find. Gotta run a SIR hood or spacers in the hinges on the hood. In my opinion I was originally going to use a WRX one, but decided to upgrade. The fuel surge tank looks kind of like an oil catch can, but has more connections coming out of it.

I've seen these all around the place and shouldn't be too much to buy. Search around the Internet and you will find many places that go though the process.

I personally didn't do it myself; I left it to my mechanic. There are many things that can go wrong here, but if you have the time, patience, and resources, then give it a go. Get a Integra DA8 one and cut it shorter, then reweld it back together.

Or you can get one from a company like Hasport. I chose the Hasport one, so that I knew it would be right, and won't break apart when driving hard. The stock rear brakes are drum brakes, so it's a good idea to replace these as part of your conversion. For both the front and the rear brakes you will need all the components including all arms, so all you need to do is bolt it in and its done.

It's a fairly easy task and should take about a day or two. I decided at the same time to replace my lines with some braided items. You might also want to upgrade you brake master cylinder BMC , proportioning valve, and brake booster while you're at it. This will increase the force at which your brakes will perform. The prop valve also helps distribute the brake force better now you don't have drum rear brakes.

The arms are interchangeable with each other; you just need to watch out, as the rear suspension mounts are different too.

ED and EF suspension are the same and should all fit together fine. Normal B series ones will fit but may require you to bash in your cross member a bit to fit. This is because if you have a look, there is not much room at all between the engine and the cross member, for the headers to fit down. I got some FGK Fugitsubo headers and they fit in perfect.

Quality was awesome too. Another option too would be to get some custom made. I got a custom one made up for mine, as my car will see a lot of track work at high temps. This translates to ps at the engine which indicates that William had the unbelievably good fortune of getting an extremely good conditioned engine. Work on setting the Field SFC unit continued. However, probably because the engine is already extremely well tuned, extensive work on the SFC did not yield any increase in power.

William's dyno tuning session finally ended with an incredible ps at the wheels from his mostly stock 2G manual B16A. My next example is Johnson's EK4. This JDM unit was purchased as a 2 year old used-import in almost prestine condition. Immediately after getting the car, Johnson sent it for an extended service, making sure the car is in very good state of health.

Because the air-filter element was dirty, Johnson decided to replace it during the service. However, instead of the noisier open-element filters, he opted for a drop-in replacement, a Monster air-filter element to fits directly into the stock air-box.

The main advantage of the Monster element was that it was a freer-flowing unit as compared to the stock element. Because his friends had good results with eliminating the catalytic converter, Johnson too decided to replace his with a custom fabricated straight-pipe. Replacement of the cat is a heavily debated topic. Besides the impact to the environment, many people believes that the cat is an essential component of the engine and so replacing it may impact its performance.

Nevertheless, it remains a fact that frequently, replacing the cat do result in some gains in the engine's max power. This unit is similar to the Fields SFC unit. Again, Johnson was eager to properly set the AFC unit via a proper dyno-tuning session.